24-03-2016, 06:24 PM
I need how I design hydraulics service jack and how to perform design calculation and I need detail Assembly drawing
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design of hydraulic service jack project pdf
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I need how I design hydraulics service jack and how to perform design calculation and I need detail Assembly drawing
31-03-2016, 02:38 PM
design of hydraulic service jack project pdf
Every hydraulic jack has six main components:
1. A RESERVOIR to hold hydraulic fluid.
2. A PUMP that draws fluid from the resevoir on it's up, suction or intake stroke then creates pressure on it's down/power stroke pushing the fluid through a...
3. CHECK VALVE which after allowing fluid to pass from the resevoir to the pump now 'checks' off the return port to the resevoir and directs the pressurized fluid to the...
4. MAIN CYLINDER where the...
5. RAM PISTON is forced out or upwards as the main cylinder fills with pressurized fluid.
6. After the jack has done it's job and it is time to release the pressure allowing the ram piston to return back into the main cylinder THE RELEASE VALVE is opened and the fluid is ported back into the resevoir so the jacking cycle can be repeated.
The original hydraulic seals were primarily LEATHER and ROPE PACKING. Today, a hundred years later, leather still is being used but has mostly given way to poly-urethane and neoprene. World War II brought about wide spread acceptance of neoprene O-RINGS as an effective yet inexpensive seal and they remain with us today, along with their slightly more effecient cousins, the QUAD RING. O-RING BACK-UP RINGS, first of leather and now commonly of plastic are popularly used to keep the round o-rings from moving around and being distorted in their usually square retaining grooves.
CHEVRON or VEE SEALS, while arguably the best, most durable seals for hydraulic applications over the past 50 years have lost ground to POLYURETHANE U-CUPS and POLY-PACKS which in the last 20 years have proven themselves to be quite excellent seals (plus, require less machine work in the original manufacturing of the jacks).
Rope packing, then later, nylon reinforced neoprene FLAT PACKINGS were widely used from the 30's to the 90's primarily as secondary seals such as piston wipers. Jacks that use flat or rope packing feature an adjustable packing nut or gland nut that allowed users to re-tighten every so often to adjust for wear. Flat packings, while still widely used are losing ground to O-Rings and may become a forgotten 'thing of the past' in the near future as fewer and fewer manufacturers use them in their newer designs.
A jack is mainly comprised of steel, oil, a few pieces of rubber, leather or polyurethane and that's about it. As far as the seals go there's really very little you can do to avoid wear other than use jack stands and keep any blatantly harmful elements from coming in contact with them such as - fire or heat (from welding), alcohol (brake fluid), paint thinners, acids, urine (from pets) and such.
Often we are asked if one should leave the pump piston down or up - and there's no one answer. Many jacks have spring loaded pumps, so, leaving the piston down will have you putting pressure against it for days, weeks and even months at a time. If the jack is not going to be used for quite a while, very likely the next time you go to jack up something you'll find your spring has lost a lot of it's zip. Luckily, in most spring loaded pumps dust covers are used so the exposed piston is not nearly as subject to grit, moisture and such. In a lot of popular Imported floor jacks, however, the pump piston is completely left out in the open while the handle is in the upright position - what do you do? Well, use your head, if you think you may not be using the jack til your next oil change several months away try and wrap a rag around it to keep out contaminants (and remember to take it off before you use the jack). If you use the jack regularly don't worry about it too much, just try and avoid getting water on it (if you hose down your shop) or dust. It would never hurt to wipe the piston down with a paper towel if you haven't used it for some time to make sure it's not loaded up with grit, spider webs and such.
As for the ram piston - keep it retracted.
An often asked question is whether the release valve should be left tightened or loose - I've never heard any official opinions on this from any maker but from our personal experience we'd recommend you keep the release 'finger tight', not really cranked down hard, just slightly set.
Every hydraulic jack has six main components:
1. A RESERVOIR to hold hydraulic fluid.
2. A PUMP that draws fluid from the resevoir on it's up, suction or intake stroke then creates pressure on it's down/power stroke pushing the fluid through a...
3. CHECK VALVE which after allowing fluid to pass from the resevoir to the pump now 'checks' off the return port to the resevoir and directs the pressurized fluid to the...
4. MAIN CYLINDER where the...
5. RAM PISTON is forced out or upwards as the main cylinder fills with pressurized fluid.
6. After the jack has done it's job and it is time to release the pressure allowing the ram piston to return back into the main cylinder THE RELEASE VALVE is opened and the fluid is ported back into the resevoir so the jacking cycle can be repeated.
The original hydraulic seals were primarily LEATHER and ROPE PACKING. Today, a hundred years later, leather still is being used but has mostly given way to poly-urethane and neoprene. World War II brought about wide spread acceptance of neoprene O-RINGS as an effective yet inexpensive seal and they remain with us today, along with their slightly more effecient cousins, the QUAD RING. O-RING BACK-UP RINGS, first of leather and now commonly of plastic are popularly used to keep the round o-rings from moving around and being distorted in their usually square retaining grooves.
CHEVRON or VEE SEALS, while arguably the best, most durable seals for hydraulic applications over the past 50 years have lost ground to POLYURETHANE U-CUPS and POLY-PACKS which in the last 20 years have proven themselves to be quite excellent seals (plus, require less machine work in the original manufacturing of the jacks).
Rope packing, then later, nylon reinforced neoprene FLAT PACKINGS were widely used from the 30's to the 90's primarily as secondary seals such as piston wipers. Jacks that use flat or rope packing feature an adjustable packing nut or gland nut that allowed users to re-tighten every so often to adjust for wear. Flat packings, while still widely used are losing ground to O-Rings and may become a forgotten 'thing of the past' in the near future as fewer and fewer manufacturers use them in their newer designs.
A jack is mainly comprised of steel, oil, a few pieces of rubber, leather or polyurethane and that's about it. As far as the seals go there's really very little you can do to avoid wear other than use jack stands and keep any blatantly harmful elements from coming in contact with them such as - fire or heat (from welding), alcohol (brake fluid), paint thinners, acids, urine (from pets) and such.
Often we are asked if one should leave the pump piston down or up - and there's no one answer. Many jacks have spring loaded pumps, so, leaving the piston down will have you putting pressure against it for days, weeks and even months at a time. If the jack is not going to be used for quite a while, very likely the next time you go to jack up something you'll find your spring has lost a lot of it's zip. Luckily, in most spring loaded pumps dust covers are used so the exposed piston is not nearly as subject to grit, moisture and such. In a lot of popular Imported floor jacks, however, the pump piston is completely left out in the open while the handle is in the upright position - what do you do? Well, use your head, if you think you may not be using the jack til your next oil change several months away try and wrap a rag around it to keep out contaminants (and remember to take it off before you use the jack). If you use the jack regularly don't worry about it too much, just try and avoid getting water on it (if you hose down your shop) or dust. It would never hurt to wipe the piston down with a paper towel if you haven't used it for some time to make sure it's not loaded up with grit, spider webs and such.
As for the ram piston - keep it retracted.
An often asked question is whether the release valve should be left tightened or loose - I've never heard any official opinions on this from any maker but from our personal experience we'd recommend you keep the release 'finger tight', not really cranked down hard, just slightly set.
09-04-2016, 05:54 PM
(31-03-2016, 02:38 PM)dhanyavp Wrote: design of hydraulic service jack project pdf
Every hydraulic jack has six main components:
1. A RESERVOIR to hold hydraulic fluid.
2. A PUMP that draws fluid from the resevoir on it's up, suction or intake stroke then creates pressure on it's down/power stroke pushing the fluid through a...
3. CHECK VALVE which after allowing fluid to pass from the resevoir to the pump now 'checks' off the return port to the resevoir and directs the pressurized fluid to the...
4. MAIN CYLINDER where the...
5. RAM PISTON is forced out or upwards as the main cylinder fills with pressurized fluid.
6. After the jack has done it's job and it is time to release the pressure allowing the ram piston to return back into the main cylinder THE RELEASE VALVE is opened and the fluid is ported back into the resevoir so the jacking cycle can be repeated.
The original hydraulic seals were primarily LEATHER and ROPE PACKING. Today, a hundred years later, leather still is being used but has mostly given way to poly-urethane and neoprene. World War II brought about wide spread acceptance of neoprene O-RINGS as an effective yet inexpensive seal and they remain with us today, along with their slightly more effecient cousins, the QUAD RING. O-RING BACK-UP RINGS, first of leather and now commonly of plastic are popularly used to keep the round o-rings from moving around and being distorted in their usually square retaining grooves.
CHEVRON or VEE SEALS, while arguably the best, most durable seals for hydraulic applications over the past 50 years have lost ground to POLYURETHANE U-CUPS and POLY-PACKS which in the last 20 years have proven themselves to be quite excellent seals (plus, require less machine work in the original manufacturing of the jacks).
Rope packing, then later, nylon reinforced neoprene FLAT PACKINGS were widely used from the 30's to the 90's primarily as secondary seals such as piston wipers. Jacks that use flat or rope packing feature an adjustable packing nut or gland nut that allowed users to re-tighten every so often to adjust for wear. Flat packings, while still widely used are losing ground to O-Rings and may become a forgotten 'thing of the past' in the near future as fewer and fewer manufacturers use them in their newer designs.
A jack is mainly comprised of steel, oil, a few pieces of rubber, leather or polyurethane and that's about it. As far as the seals go there's really very little you can do to avoid wear other than use jack stands and keep any blatantly harmful elements from coming in contact with them such as - fire or heat (from welding), alcohol (brake fluid), paint thinners, acids, urine (from pets) and such.
Often we are asked if one should leave the pump piston down or up - and there's no one answer. Many jacks have spring loaded pumps, so, leaving the piston down will have you putting pressure against it for days, weeks and even months at a time. If the jack is not going to be used for quite a while, very likely the next time you go to jack up something you'll find your spring has lost a lot of it's zip. Luckily, in most spring loaded pumps dust covers are used so the exposed piston is not nearly as subject to grit, moisture and such. In a lot of popular Imported floor jacks, however, the pump piston is completely left out in the open while the handle is in the upright position - what do you do? Well, use your head, if you think you may not be using the jack til your next oil change several months away try and wrap a rag around it to keep out contaminants (and remember to take it off before you use the jack). If you use the jack regularly don't worry about it too much, just try and avoid getting water on it (if you hose down your shop) or dust. It would never hurt to wipe the piston down with a paper towel if you haven't used it for some time to make sure it's not loaded up with grit, spider webs and such.
As for the ram piston - keep it retracted.
An often asked question is whether the release valve should be left tightened or loose - I've never heard any official opinions on this from any maker but from our personal experience we'd recommend you keep the release 'finger tight', not really cranked down hard, just slightly set.
02-05-2016, 01:54 PM
(24-03-2016, 06:24 PM)Guest Wrote: I need how I design hydraulics service jack and how to perform design calculation and I need detail Assembly drawing
(24-03-2016, 06:24 PM)Guest Wrote: I need how I design hydraulics service jack and how to perform design calculation and I need detail Assembly drawing
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